Guide to Chemical Peels

Guide to chemical peels.

Chemical peels are used as a resurfacing technique in order to rejuvenate the skin and to address specific problems such as acne condition, pigmentation, superficial lines, wrinkles and, to a lesser extent, sagging.

All chemical peels will exfoliate to different degrees depending on their strength and acidity (the lower the pH is, the more aggressive the chemical peel will be).  Aside from exfoliation, chemical peels also stimulate skin functions; metabolic performance through oxygenation, cell division through exfoliation, stimulation of collagen production and improvement of elastine fibers.

Divided in three distinct categories (superficial peels, medium strength and aggressive), chemical peels are designed to address specific skin conditions and will achieve different results. The stronger and more acid (lower pH balance) the peel is, the better and more visible the results will be, but also the risks associated with the procedure will increase proportionally.

SUPERFICIAL PEELS

Used in high concentration under professional supervision or in lower concentrations in skin care products, those peels belong to the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) or BHA (beta hydroxy acid) group. Their main purpose is to exfoliate the out layer of the epidermis and to improve skin’s texture and coloring.

The best known and most widely used acid from this group is Glycolic (extracted from sugar cane). By removing the top layer of the epidermis Glycolic acid speeds up the turn over of skin cells as it stimulates the process of cell division. Also used as a carrier, Glycolic will facilitate the penetration of other ingredients and will regulate the activity of sebaceous glands, reducing acne breakouts. The result will be a healthier skin with improved vitality and a more radiant appearance.

Salicylic acid (extracted from willow bark) belongs to the BHA (beta hydroxy acids) and has the unique property of reshaping the pores deformed by the accumulation of sebum. In combination with other acids (lactic, glycolic, malic, and ascorbic), it is the most efficient anti acne remedy.

Lactic acid (derived from sour dairy products or fermented fruit) is normally used in combination with the above mentioned acids to form a stronger chemical peel. Successfully used for lightening skin pigmentation Lactic acid is often combined with other active ingredients such as mulberry and licorice extract.

MODERATE STRENGTH PEELS 

Stronger peels are used in an attempt to improve the skin’s structure by stimulating the production of collagen and elastine as well as to diminish pigmentation while erasing superficial lines.

TCA (trichloracetic acid– also called the “blue peel”) is a combination of salicylic, lactic, Jassner and at times resorcinol and Hydroquinone).

Since it penetrates to a deeper level and removes more skin layers than superficial peels, TCA will lighten considerably brown age spots and will eliminate superficial pigmentation caused by excessive sun exposure.

Redness and moderate peeling will last for about a week and the discomfort is compensated by the results. TCA peel will visibly reduce acne scars and will minimize pores resulting in a more refined and smooth skin appearance.

AGGRESSIVE PEEL

Phenol based chemical peels are it is the strongest peel available. It penetrates to the first layer of the dermis and will achieve dramatic and long lasting results. Phenol peels soften considerably the depth of wrinkles (cause by the collapse of collagen and elastine), but most importantly it stimulates and significantly increase their production. The result will be a much improved skin resilience and firmness. Acne scars and depressions are completely and permanently removed and skin’s texture will become smooth and vibrant.

The recovery time is about 4 weeks and special precautions are recommender in order to avoid infections.

A multitude of chemical peels are available and successfully performed by dermatologists, plastic surgeons and qualified, licensed aestheticians.

The decision of using a particular peel should be based on your specific skin condition, a good understanding of their performance and a realistic expectation in terms of accomplishing the desired results.